DOWNSTREAM FROM RHEINGAU, WHERE THE BANKS OF THE RIVER LOSE THEIR SMILING MINE, WHERE MOUNTAINS AND ROCKS WITH THEIR FANTASTIC RUINS OF OLD VILLAGES TAKE ON A HAUGHTY, WILDER, MORE SERIOUS AND MORE MAJESTIC AIR, WE DISCOVER, SIMILAR TO A GLOOMY LEGEND OF THE OLD DAYS, THE OLD AND DARK CITY OF BACHARACH.